Working files vs machine stitch files
Embroidery files come in two families, and mixing them up causes most file headaches:
- Working or native files are saved by the digitizing program. They store objects (a satin column, a fill area, a block of lettering), each with its settings. You can resize, recolor, change density or edit text, and the software recalculates the stitches. Each program has its own native format, and these generally open fully only in that program.
- Machine or stitch files are what the embroidery machine reads. They store stitches as coordinates plus commands such as trim, jump and color change or stop. You can edit them stitch by stitch, but resizing is crude because stitch count and density don't adjust properly.
Resize a stitch file only a little. Make large size changes from the working file, or have the design redigitized, so density and underlay are recalculated.
DST, PES, EXP, JEF, VP3 and XXX compared
| Extension | Associated with | What to know |
|---|---|---|
DST | Tajima | Widely read by commercial multi-needle machines. Stores stitches and commands but no thread colors: color changes are stops, and the operator assigns colors at the machine. Send a color sheet with it. |
PES | Brother and Baby Lock | Common on home and small commercial machines. Stores thread color information. Different machines support different PES versions, so say which machine you have. |
EXP | Melco and Bernina | A stitch file used by these machines. Color handling depends on the machine and software, so include a color sheet. |
JEF | Janome | Janome machine format; the file also records a hoop setting, so say which hoop you use. |
VP3 | Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff | Stores color information; used by these brands' machines and software. |
XXX | Singer | Singer machine format. |
Formats change over time, and machines differ in which versions they read. When in doubt, check your machine's manual or software for supported formats, and test-sew any new file.
What to ask a digitizer to deliver
- The machine file in your format, saved for your machine and hoop where that matters.
- A proof sheet showing the design at actual size, with dimensions, stitch count, color sequence and thread colors.
- The working file, if you or another digitizer might edit the design later. Ask which program opens it.
- A second format if you run machines from more than one brand.
Converting DST to PES and other formats
Converting one stitch format to another, such as DST to PES, is common and usually works because both store stitches. Some information can get lost: DST has no thread colors to pass on, and commands like trims may be read differently. Conversion can't turn a stitch file back into clean, editable objects. Software that claims to read stitches back into objects gives rough results that usually need cleanup.
Why a JPEG isn't an embroidery file
Images and vector art are what goes into digitizing, not what comes out. Auto-digitizing tools can convert an image into stitches, but they rarely set underlay, pull compensation, sequencing and density the way the fabric needs. For anything beyond very simple shapes, manual digitizing usually sews better. If your only copy of the logo is a poor image, start with a vector redraw.
Embroidery file format questions
Which format should I ask for?
The one your machine reads natively. For many commercial multi-needle machines that is DST. If you're not sure, check the machine's manual or the file types its software opens.
My DST file sewed in the wrong colors. Why?
DST doesn't store thread colors, so the machine uses whatever colors are set on its needles. Assign colors at the machine from the proof sheet.
Can a digitizer send the same design in two formats?
Ask for it if you run machines from more than one brand. Saving a second format from the working file is the cleanest way to get it. Cap files are a separate matter, covered on the cap digitizing page.
Need a file in your machine's format? Send the artwork and tell us the machine.
Send artwork for a quote